Which Belay Device is Safer: ATC or Grigri?

When it comes to choosing the right belay device for your climbing adventures, the question of whether to use an ATC (Air Traffic Controller) or a Grigri often arises. The choice depends on various factors including the climber's experience, the type of climbing, and personal preference. Let’s delve into a detailed comparison of these two popular belay devices to help you make an informed decision.

Comparison of ATC Air Traffic Controller and Grigri

ATC Air Traffic Controller

Type: Manual tube-style belay device

Operation: The ATC requires the belayer to actively manage the rope with their hands, demanding constant attention and control.

Pros:

Simplicity: Fewer moving parts, reducing the risk of mechanical failure. Versatility: Suitable for both single and double ropes, and can be used for rappelling. Experience: Best suited for experienced climbers who can react quickly in dynamic situations.

Cons:

Management: Requires constant attention, which can be a disadvantage in high-stress situations.

Grigri

Type: Assisted-braking belay device

Operation: The Grigri automatically engages the brake when the rope is pulled quickly, providing added safety in case the belayer loses control.

Pros:

Safety: Offers a level of automatic braking, beneficial for inexperienced climbers or in distracting situations. Lowering Climbers: Easier for lowering climbers and catching heavier falls.

Cons:

Complexity: More complex mechanism, prone to misuse if not understood properly. Rappelling: Less effective for rappelling and may require specific techniques for different rope diameters.

Conclusion on Safety Considerations

The Grigri offers more safety features for novices or in critical situations where quick reflexes are necessary. However, an experienced belayer can effectively control risks with an ATC. Ultimately, the choice depends on your experience level, type of climbing, and personal preference.

Recommendation

For sport climbing, many climbers prefer the Grigri due to its assisted braking, while traditional climbers often favor the ATC for its simplicity. An experienced climber should be capable of using both devices effectively, with some climbers preferring the ATC due to its ergonomic design for left-handed and right-handed belayers alike.

When selecting a belay device, consider your climbing experience, the type of climbing, and whether you value a simple device over one with advanced features. Whether you choose an ATC or a Grigri, prioritizing safety and exercise proper technique is crucial.