Memories of a Lifetime: Tracing the Southern Tip of Africa

Unexpected Encounters

Travelling can be a treasure trove of unexpected encounters that leave an indelible mark on one’s memory. Consider the ex-student I met in Swansea, Wales, or the family friend I bumped into in Westminster Abbey. These moments, along with an impromptu tour of the chapel at the USAF Academy by a kind stranger, a police escort in St Petersburg for posting a parcel, and language chats with various characters from Chicago to AMTRAK, are fragments of a journey filled with human kindness and genuine connection.

The experience of sharing a bottle of vodka, holiday photos, and an unforgettable time with the Russians met on the TransSiberian, adds layers of authenticity and depth to the travels. These gatherings, simple as they might seem, are the ones that stay with you long after the journey is over.

Such interactions remind us that, regardless of the destination, the people we meet and the stories we share are the true treasures of travel.

A Lifetime's Journey: The December 1986 Trip

The planning for our December 1986 trip was months in advance. The vibrant map of South Africa was spread across our dining room table, and we meticulously plotted routes and distances, jotting down points of interest. The men in our group – Ray, Roelf, and Jan – engaged in spirited banter as they discussed routes, while my partner and I managed to escape the chaos in the kitchen to gather our strength.

The plan was a ten-day motorbike trip through the Garden Route, down to Cape Town, and then up the western side of the country. We intended to make a right turn at Augrabies, all on twin bikes. The journey began with the excitement of passing through Johannesburg, the birthplace of South Africa’s gold rush, and then traversing the picturesque landscapes of the Orange Free State, including Bethlehem.

Our early-morning departure was accompanied by the crisp pre-dawn chill, which was comfortably mitigated by our leather jackets. A recent innovation, Ray’s two-way radio device in our helmets allowed us to communicate clearly without the need to scream over the wind. As dawn approached, the sky transformed from a star-studded indigo to a palette of lilac, peach, and brilliant orange, illuminating the magnificent sandstone mountains that lay ahead, glistening in the early morning light.

Our first stop was Ficksburg, renowned for its large cherry farms, and the cherry festivals celebrated since 1968. After a hearty breakfast of bacon, eggs, and coffee, which provided the necessary energy for the long ride ahead, we journeyed onward. Along the way, we encountered groups of Basotho men riding sturdy ponies, clad in traditional clothing, and we were greeted with friendly salutations as we passed by. These interactions with the Basotho people added a sense of authenticity to our journey.

Skipping Clocolan, we reached the beautifully tranquil town of Ladybrand and then stopped at Wepener for a much-needed break. The town, founded at the foot of the Jammersberg Mountain of Sorrow, offered a brief respite from the long ride. Historic battles were fought in this area, and unmarked graves of both British and Boer lie nearby. Wepener, with its small but beautiful riverside, provided a calm haven before we continued our journey.

Our journey through southern Africa remains a cherished memory, a tapestry woven with unexpected encounters, stunning landscapes, and precious moments shared with both locals and fellow travellers. Each stop, each interaction, and every view along the road imbues the journey with a unique character, making it a lifetime’s worth of memories.